Cat Behaviour Problems - Possible Causes

No one really expects a cat to behave in the same way as a dog as far as doing things on command, but we do have a reasonable expectation that there will be some common courtesies observed between cat and owner. Therefore, when your cat starts to manifest behaviour problems such as not using the litterbox, showing aggression, scratching furniture etc., we need to take inventory on what might be causing this and set about finding a solution so that we can live in peace once more with our feline companion.

First:

Rule out any possibility that a health problem could be the reason for the misbehaviour. Animals cannot moan and complain as we do and so their only reaction to being in pain or discomfort is seen in their behaviour.

Once your cat has received a clean bill of health from the veterinarian you can now look for other explanations. Here are a few possible causes for cat behaviour problems:

• Changes on the home front - is there a new person in the house such as a baby or more human activity, like visitors, than usual?
• Have you introduced a new pet to your home?
• Have you made changes to your home. Are you having construction done or maybe purchased a new piece of furniture, carpet or anything that may have a different smell to it?
• Of course if you have moved and are living in a new home, chances are that this been extremely stressful to your cat.
• Are you changing the litterbox regularly? As a rule, cats will not use a dirty litterbox.

The good news is that most cat behaviour problems are pretty common and can be easily remedied. You just have to be persistent and consistent. If you only try something for 1 week and give up because there are no changes, you could very well be looking at an entirely new problem...trying to find a new home for your pet. No pet lover wants to come to that point when a solution can be found through careful and loving persistence. Cats are creatures of habit and with enough diligence on your part, your cat's behaviour problem will more than likely be an easy fix.

For more information, explanations and solutions the following books may be of interest:

• Cat Secrets Revealed - Plus Free Secrets of Cats Newsletter. This woman tamed and trained 11 feral kittens..and she had never even owned a cat in her life
• Solutions to Cat Behaviour Problems - For the serious cat problem solver only..the facts and solutions for your cat's behaviour straight from a veterinarian

The Pet Food Recall - What Now?

Since the fuss and well-deserved hoopla over the tainted pet food, I'm left wondering who can you trust?

With two cats who mean the world to me, I thought I was safe at the beginning of the recall in that the brands I use were not on the list. Then the list grew and grew until I was left wondering, how do I know that next week the manufacturer I purchase from will not recall their food "just to be on the safe side"?

Add to that the fact that our own government agency (FDA) does not seem to have a handle on this, is making pet owners in this country very jittery.

What I did:

• Checked by telephone with the manufacturer of my cat food (Royal Canin). I was assured that they did not import any ingredients from overseas. However, in the weeks to come they would proceed to pull some of their products from the shelves. I'm sure I'm not the only person that went through this and was left wondering...who can I trust?

To be fair to Royal Canin, they have now set up a FAQ page on their website for concerned pet owners here . I am still feeling jittery.

• Started buying and cooking drumsticks (free range from Whole Foods), nothing fancy, no special sauce or seasoning. I put one in the oven until cooked, wrap in foil and keep it in the fridge for the evening treat. It takes about two weeks to use them up.
• Still using NestlePurina's Fancy Feast. After looking at the ingredients I couldn't find anything suspicious that had been mentioned in the recall, checked the website, my cats seem fine, so I continue to use it. Purina also has a FAQ page here.

Still, it does make you wonder...plus I came across this information which is really unsettling (if you have dogs). A book by someone who says that basically all of our pets are at risk from most commercial pet food. It's called Dog Food Secrets. Even though it's for dog owners, I'm sure somewhere there is another version on it's way for cat owners.

IS YOUR HOME A DANGER ZONE TO YOUR PET?

You know how we have to "kid proof" our homes so that they are safe for children?
It's the same for pets, and this is especially for people who are new to having a pet in their home.

I have learned myself that you never know what your kitty (or dog) will find to amuse themselves with next.

OK. This is just a quick check list of your home to make sure. Most of this will seem kind of "duh" but I am sure there are many veterinarians who wonder what on earth pet owners were thinking (or not thinking). Anyway...

• Wires. There are the obvious things such as electrical cords. Make sure they are not just lying around looking attractive to curious puppies or kittens. It's a good idea to tack them down so that they are less noticeable (don't put the tack through the wire...).


• Sharp objects. This would be the same as the rule with having small children around. Scissors, pins, tacks, nails, razor blades, broken glass. An animal doesn't know if something is potentially dangerous just by looking at it.


• Small objects. Jewelry, twist ties, thread, wool, any sewing supplies, string, rubber bands, paper clips are all choking hazards.


• Houseplants. The following are particularly harmful to cats: Rubber plants, Philodendrons, Mistletoe, Ivy, Hydrangeas, Holly, Narcissus or any forced indoor bulbs, Dieffenbachia (Dumbcane), Cyclamens, Carnations, Caladiums.


• Household Chemicals. Make sure your household cleaners are safely locked away where curious young pups and kitties can't get into investigate. Alot of these things are lethal if ingested and they can't read the directions on what to do if they do ingest..


• Shade and blind pulls. Make sure cords on your blinds are out of reach. Cats can't resist that dangling string but it could strangle them if they get caught in them.


• Doors on Washer/Dryer/Refigerator/Oven. Keep these doors closed. Also check inside often just in case they did find their way in.


• Garbage cans. Keep them securely covered or even out of sight. Old bones or anything we have thrown out could be a potential hazard in the mouth of a pet.


• Close the toilet lid. Self-explanatory but mostly only for younger or smaller pets.

Always make sure, especially new pet owners, you know where your pet is and what they are doing. Pets often hide when they are unwell and finding out as soon as possible could make all the difference in the world.

IS "CRUELTY-FREE" POSSIBLE?

My 2 Cents - and I apologize in advance for the passion:

More and more people are catching on to the fact that the larger companies out there, whether food companies, manufacturers of household products or clothing, cosmetic companies, etc., etc., involve either using animal products and/or test on animals to produce their final product.

I am bemused, but not surprised, that in the case of women's cosmetics for example, the very women who would be moved to tears at the sight of an injured or tortured animal routinely apply substances to their bodies that are the direct result of horrific and brutal testing upon defenseless animals.

I am not surprised, because the companies involved have done a really good job of making sure we are unaware of their practices. When asked point blank if they indulge in such testing they usually give the same pat gobbley-gook answer that they are required by law to carry out such testing, thereby passing the blame onto some higher authority ("I'm just following orders....").

The truth is, which is being proved every day (by companies that do not use such methods), that such practices are not necessary, most of them completely unecessary and that these products can be provided without harming one hair on an animal's head.

The real reasons these companies continue to carry out their testing are:

• It is cheaper to use animals to test on
• They don't want to go to the trouble or expense to utilize alternative testing methods
• They are more concerned about their bottom line
• They couldn't care less about animal torture

How do they sleep at night? Probably very well as they are making enough money and besides, only someone with a conscience can be kept awake at night.

For more information than I can provide here visit the NAVS

KITTY WITH A BIG HEART

On my last visit to the vet for my two cats' annual check up I was told that my 8 year old calico, Tasha (seen in picture), has an enlarged heart. It was a surprise since there were no symptoms that I could see.

Was it my fault? Probably not, apparently it is usually a genetic weakness inherited from one of the parents.

What to do? She is currently on a beta blocker taken every evening by syringe which, I am told, blocks the effects of stress on the heart by slowing the heart rate and reducing the heart’s oxygen demand and may help to control heart rhythm disturbances.

In the meantime there is not much we can do to help, except be mindful of her condition and try to keep things as stress-free for her as possible. This has brought it's own set of problems, in that she was already extremely nervous in the car trip to the vet, and now I have to take her to a vet nearer home to avoid raising her stress level.

The good news is that she is still behaving the same way she was before her illness was discovered, except that she is sleeping more (I'm told this is a side effect of the medicine). Apart from that, she is the same character she has always been, but just that much more cherished by her family.

Don't ask...it's a cat thing....

FROSTBITE AND YOUR PET

At this time of year in the US it's safe to say that most states are feeling the pinch of colder weather which is unpleasant enough for us humans but what about your pet?

Since animals don't have the ability to vocalize and complain the way we do (well some of us anyway, I'm sure you don't), we may assume that everything is just fine with them and that they are feeling just dandy about the drop in temperature. Personally speaking, with two cats, I can see how it would be easy to take their wellbeing for granted since they tend to hide and cover up their discomfort, the opposite of humans.

Other animals at risk at this time of year are the ones who have no one to look out for them in severe weather. Stray pets who have wandered away from home and no longer have a warm place for the winter are particularly in danger of dying outside from frostbite.

So what do we do when we have a dog or cat suffering from frostbite?

First, recognize the symptoms

• Limping - frostbitten toes make walking difficult
• Frozen ears - the tips of the ears will droop
• Frostbitten skin will be hard, nonpliable and extremely cold

First Aid Tools

For Immediate Use:

• Rectal thermometer
• Petroleum jelly
• Towels/Cloths
• Warm water

Follow-Up Care After Seeing Vet

• Neosporin or similar antibiotic ointment
• E-Collar (Elizabethan collar)
• Any kind of plastic wrap such as Saran Wrap, bread wrapper, trash bag
• Tape
• Pill syringe

Action

If at all possible, please get the animal to a veterinarian immediately.

If you are not able to see a vet immediately, take the following action:

• Bring the animal indoors straight away
• Take the temperature - Note that pets who are frostbitten may have hypothermia. Use the rectal thermometer with the petroleum jelly to take the temperature. If it's below 99F, then the animal needs treatment for hypothermia immediately. See below for hypothermia treatment.
• Apply a towel soaked in lukewarm water to the area of the frostbite and treat for about 20 minutes, changing the towel every few minutes so that it remains warm - DO NOT RUB THE AREA - this will cause further damage.
• If possible, you can soak the area directly by placing the part of the animal in lukewarm water. This may be easier when a paw is affected or part of the body. Make sure you keep the animal warm after getting wet by covering in towels or blankets. If there is hypothermia along with the frostbite it is dangerous for the animal to be wet and cold.

NEXT

Once the initial first aid has been performed, you will need to take your pet to the vet. Depending on the extent of damage they may prescribe an antibiotic healing ointment such as Neosporin or a protecting ointment like Desitin which contains zinc to help the skin heal quickly and will probably suggest an E-collar (a cone-shaped collar that prevents the pet from licking the wound).

You could also discourage your pet from licking the treated area by applying a safe substance such as Bitter Yuck by NaturVet on the treated area. This product is totally safe to be used on surgical areas and will keep your pet from licking at the wound.

HYPOTHERMIA

There are different levels of hypothermia.

• Mild hypothermia - Temperature between 95 and 99F
• Moderate hypothermia - Temperature between 90 and 95F
• Severe hypothermia - Temperature below 90F for more than 30 minutes

Pets with mild to moderate hypothermia will appear cold to the touch, shivery and sleepy and may be treated with first aid at home. In mild cases, you can warm your pet yourself just by having him in a warm environment and giving him warm liquids (i.e. warm chicken broth). They will normally recover within approximately an hour or so.

In the case of moderate hypothermia, they will take longer to come back to normal and will need closer supervision. If the temperature has not risen after home treatment, they need to see a vet immediately. You can warm your pet by placing hot water bottles wrapped in towels against the groin or side of the neck or armpit. Remember, your pet will still need to see a veterinarian.

Pets with severe hypothermia must see a vet immediately. The vet is equipped with special techniques to warm your pet from the inside out, which is required with severe hypothermia. Trying to do this yourself is very dangerous. Before and during the trip to the vet you must make sure your pet is dry and warm. Use a blanket to keep him warm and make sure your transportation is also warm. When the journey is longer than 30 minutes or the pet's temperature has dropped below 90F, you can apply a hot water bottle wrapped in a towel and apply as in the moderate case above.

Of course, there is plenty of information around and you can always check out reliable sources for more information such as the ASPCA website and always check first with your veterinarian when possible before just guessing what to do.